My Car Kills Batteries....What Can the Problem Be?

I have bought several batteries for my '92 Buick Le Sabre and still don't know why after a few months I need to power the battery every morning.

Please help!

You may need a new alternator or regulator or both. There is some type of problem in the electrical system draining your battery. Until you figure what the problem is, I would suggest investing in a battery jump starter or a battery charger. A jump starter will allow you to jump start your dead battery so you are stuck somewhere and can't get home. These are great to have in a emergency. Battery jump starters are rechargable and portable. They have jumper cables attached to them for easy use.

97 Chevy Astro has Heater / Air Condtioning Vent Problem

So the heat and air conditioning in my 97 Chevy Astro van only comes out the defroster, and the bottom of the passenger side legroom area. Nothing really comes out the vents. I know what the answer to this question is already, I think. A broken vacuum line.

Where do I locate this vacuum line? Is this something that I can do myself? I am fairly handy with tools (I changed my own alternator, do periodic maintenence myself). Is there anything else that could be causing this?

Try this to solve the problem. The vacuum leak could be right under the hood ... check the vacuum canister attached to the underside of the hood. Look to see if a hose is hanging off it. Reattaching the hose should solve the problem. Hopefully this helps you.

Air conditioner starts working while its switch is off in Defrost mode

Hi there,

I've just bought a secondhand 2000 Mazda 626 Lx in very good condition except for one odd problem: when I try to select the Defroster Air Flow mode (air towards the windshield) the air
conditioner starts working by it-self, even if it's switch is off.

Any suggestions?

Most cars turn on the Air Conditioning compressor any time "defrost" is selected. Helps to de-humidify the air and clear the fog quicker. Of course the Air Conditioner won't run if the air coming into the evaporator is below freezing. If it is not blowing cold air, you can check for refrigerant leaks with a refrigerant leak detector .

Chevy Idler Pulley Has Lost All Tension

I have a 91 Chevy Cavalier 4-door sedan with 190,000 miles on it. All of a sudden, after starting the car, I heard a loud squealing, especially when turning, and I lost some of my power steering ability. I just checked under the hood, and the serpentine belt is very slack. I used a 15 mm wrench to adjust the idler pulley upwards, to make the belt tight, but merely pressing down on the belt with my hand makes the pulley go back down again, and the belt becomes loose. The belt itself appears fine.

Just an FYI: on my car, the belt connects the crankshaft pulley, water pump, alternator, power steering pump, and idler pulley. The idler pulley is held in place by one 15 mm bold, and it is supposed to tension the belt automatically. Up to now, it has.

Does anyone know how to fix this? Is there a temp fix I can use just to make my car driveable, so I can get to the parts store?

I suppose if all the pulleys suddenly stopped turning while driving, the only harm would be the coolant not circulating, and the consequent overheating, right? As well as the draining of the battery, although I have a professional battery charger and jump starter for that.

Thanks for any help!

You access the bolts through the holes in the pulley. Just turn the pulley until they line up.
You may then be able to get an air ratchet wrench with the correct socket in there.

Refrigerant leak in your Explorer?

I have a late model model Ford Explorer (1998) and the air conditioner is not cooling very well. I had the freon recharged and that helped for a while. However slowly, it began to not cool very well again. What could the problem be?

Thanks for the great question.

The first thing to do is check for a refrigerant leak in the air conditioning system. It sounds like your air conditioner is leaking refrigerant. Any easy way to do this is by using a Robinair refrigerant leak detector. This device will "sniff" out a freon leak if there is one. Also, since you have a 1997 Ford Explorer, I would check the blanket that is wrapped around your accumulator. On those models, moisture gets trapped in there and causes rust to build up on the steel accumulator. Ford eventually corrected this problem on later models. You may also "sniff" around it with your Robinair refrigerant leak detector and see if it leaking there.

How do I jump start my car if I am alone?

Last week, the battery on my Dodge pickup truck died on me and I couldn't start my truck. Normally, this is not a big deal. I always have a pair of jumper cables. The problem was, where do I get another car to jump from? Your battery doesn't always die in the mall parking lot. I was out in the woods with no one in sight. I was up the proverbial creek with out a paddle. Luckily after waiting half a day, my brother remembered I was out there and came looking for me. Is there a way to jump start a truck without needing jumper cables and another vehicle?

Thanks for your email. Sorry to hear about your trouble. That is a great question and there is a solution. There is a product called a battery booster or a jump starter. It is like having a spare car in your trunk to jump start your truck. All you have to do is charge it up and put it your car. The next time you are stuck and need a jump, all you need is your K&K Jump N Carry. This unit has jumper cables attached to it. All you do is hook it up to your battery and crank your car. This is a great product to have on your boat too.

Need GMC Van Air Conditioning advice on refrigerant leak

I'm a mechanic but never spent much time on air con repairs. I recently purchased a 1997 GMC Safari but the compressor wouldn't engage so I figured the 134 was low. I had it charged and it worked great for a day but there must be a leak. The condenser looked pretty rough so I bought
an excellent one from a low mileage wreck. When I disconnected the condenser, there was still pressure in the system, not a lot but I would think if there was a leak, there would be no pressure.
I did try a can of red dye but I can't see any obvious leaks. I don't want to start throwing parts at this van. Any air con techs out there have any ideas or the best way to get some cold air from this puppy.

Thanks

Thanks for the email. On possibility is a shaft seal on the compressor. This is a very common failure. The red dye can be very frustrating to use and may not really help at all as you discovered. Refrigerant leak detectors are very accurate and will save you a lot of time by locating a freon leak quickly. There are several manufacturers out there. Robinair makes a really good and simple to use refrigerant leak detector. It works by creating a high voltage corona in the sensing tip. When this field is interrupted by refrigerant, the alarm is triggered. All corona discharge leak detectors are not the same, however -- the quality of key components is critical in providing an effective instrument.

Car Cover Question

Hello folks,I'm trying to get people's input/suggestions for car covers. Sadly, myhouse doesn't have a garage, but I really need something to keep theweather and the birds away from my car. Ultimately, what I'd like tofind (yeah, I'm dreaming here) is something that looks pretty classy,not like a cheap tent sitting in the yard.So far all I've looked at has been the cover made by Duraports (wwwduraports dot com, I think?), and it looks nice, only two supportingpoles. But this is where this board comes in- what have you guys beenusing, what has worked for you and what hasn't, what would yourecommend? Whatever input you can give me would be most appreciated!

Thanks for the email. I would avoid using a car cover at all. They will trap moisture, which causes more harm than good. Trapped moisture will etch paint,cause rust to form and possibly mildew. Instead of looking for a car cover, I would wash the car every month or two with a good auto wash detergent. Then wax it with a really good automotive wax. Using an air buffer will make quick work of wax job and your car will look a lot better.

Turn air into gasoline! Tire pressure and better fuel efficiency.

One of the easiest ways to improve the gas mileage for your car is checking the tire pressure in all four tires. Simply doing this routine tire maintenance can save fuel and increase the life of your tires. A government study concluded that by correctly maintaining your tires is like getting 2 “free” tanks of gas a year. With today’s fuel prices that could easily be $140! You will also increase the life of your tires and could save at least one new set of tires during the life of your car. Now that I have you convinced of the value of good tire pressure, let’s discuss the basics. First you will need to purchase an inexpensive tire pressure gauge. These are easy to find and easy to use. Buy a good one (They don’t cost that much) and put it in your glove box. The next big question is “How much air do my tires need?” You will need to find out what the manufacturer’s recommended pressure is for your vehicle. You can find this information in a couple of places. First you can look in your owner’s manual or check the information placard glued on the inside edge of the doors. Remember, the tire pressure on the side of the tire is the maximum pressure for that particular tire. This is different from the manufacturer’s recommended pressure. Now you are ready to check the pressure in your tires. The best time to check your pressure is when your tires are cold. The car should have been sitting for at least three hours or have been driven for less than 2 miles. If your tires are hot, then the air is hot and the pressure will read higher than normal. This is why using the manufacturer’s recommended tire pressure is so important. If you use the maximum tire pressure printed on the tire and then drive out on the road, the pressure will increase because of the heat. This can be potentially unsafe. If they are low, take a quick trip to the neighborhood gas station. There you can add a few pounds of air and recheck the pressure. One tip, don’t trust the gauge on the air compressor at the gas station. These are generally in bad shape and have been treated poorly. Use your new one you just purchased instead. Repeat this process every month. You will save gas and extend the life of your expensive tires.

Timing belt squealing loud

I'm uncertain if it's the timing belt but I can hear a very loud squealing of the belt that's located near the driver side tire. I can see the belt if I stand beside the driver side tire. I had my balance shaft belt and timing belt replaced at the same time last month. It could be them. I'm surprised that I can still drive. Question: I am going to the mechanic, but should I have it towed? I'm worried it might turn worse and what's the possibility the engine has been damaged already?

The timing belt and balancer belt are cogged. They cannot squeal. It's either an accessory drive belt/serpentine belt that's loose or misadjusted. Or... If the installer did not replace the timing belt tensioner, it could be seizing, which can cause a horrendous noise. This is very bad. Take out your air ratchet wrench and tighten accessory drive belt(s). Replace if cracked/glazed/packed with gravel. If noise persists, a tensioner is squealing. Apparently smearing talcum powder/baby powder on the friction surface of the belt can cause it to grip enough to stop a squeal for a while, so you can try that to see if the belt shuts up. If fiddling with the belts does not stop the squeal, better get that tensioner looked at. A failed tensioner will cause your timing belt to jump. This can wreck your valves.

Steering Wheel on a 92' Jeep Cherokee SUV Shaking Badly!

I have a 1992 Jeep Cherokee and recently the pressure in my right front tire was extremely low. I checked it with a pressure gauge and it only had 10 lbs! It should have 35 lbs. I added air but not long after that the front end started shaking really bad and it pulls to the left. The shaking seems to be more in the steering wheel and it varies with speed. The Jeep is running extremely rough. Can you give me an idea what I am dealing with? Thanks

Sounds like a dead tire. I would not drive on it at all. You need to take off the suspect tire and bring into your local tire store. They can evaluate if it is dead or not. The best way to remove your tire is with an air impact wrench. Get a set of SAE or metric impact socket set and a good 1/2" impact. An air tool will make quick work of the lug nuts, especially since your Jeep is 13 years old. It is best to have both tires on the same axle with the same wear on a Cherokee unless it is a 2 WD one as well.

Honda Civic - Loud Engine and Slower Acceleration

Over the past few days, I have noticed that the engine on my '99 Honda Civic is much louder then before, particularly when accelerating and the car feels slower/sloppier, so I need to push gas pedal more to get the same acceleration.

Any ideas on what to could be causing this or what to check.

Thanks,

The first thing to check is the exhaust system (pipes,muffler, catalytic converter) for any obvious holes. If the bracket that holds the muffler to the frame is loose. Grab an impact wrench and snug it up. Make sure all the piping is snug and fitted together. That would explain the load engine noise. I would also check the transmission fluid level. Another option is too look for a loose spark plug. One scary possibility is your oil level. If you are dry, your engine may be about to seize. There could be a lot of reasons for the symptoms you described. But this should give you a starting point.

Environmentally Friendly alternatives to Freon

I'm doing some research on environmentally friendly alternatives to Freon. I know that there's a "new freon" which is supposed to be better for the environment, safer, etc. However, I'm wondering what else is out there, the experiences of people who have tried it, etc. For example, by searching the internet, I came upon something called "Enviro-Safe 22a". It's supposed to save electricity, and be better for the environment. Can you help?

They are several different formulations for different applications. For home Air Conditioning use go with go old R22 or R410a. You really do not have many options depending on equipment. For automotive applications there is R12 and R134 refrigerant. Older automobiles will have R12 and newer models will all have R134. You can still buy R12, but it is very expensive. I would recommend converting to the newer R134. Plus if you are in the USA you need to be EPA certified to use pretty much all refrigerants. You will also need to have a refrigerant recovery,recycling and recharging machine in order to remove the old freon. It is illegal to just release into the air. A good model to check out is the Robinair CoolTech 700 for R134. You will also need a freon leak detector and a air conditioning manifold gauge set to check pressures.

Help with a stuck bolt on Dodge Intrepid

I have a Dodge Intrepid and I can't get the rear strut replacement bolts to budge with my socket set. What should I try?

Thanks for your email, here are a few suggestions for you:


1. Good quality 1/2" Impact Wrench and an impact socket set. Don't use your handlheld sockets with an air impact wrench. They are not designed for that kind of torque. You will need a good quality impact socket set with both SAE and metric sockets. An high quality impact manufactured by Ingersoll Rand or Chicago Pneumatic is generally all you need to "convince" a stubborn nut or bolt to loosen.

Failing that:

2. Heat up the area around the bolt with a torch.. (CAREFUL! Remember the gas tank and gas lines. If you aren't completey sure about this. Don't do it.) and try
the impact again.

3. PB Blaster that soaks for a day
4. Air hammer on the bolt itself to try and dislodge it.. Usually destroy it.. (See an example here:
http://www.mailsack.org/lugnut.JPG)

5. Weld a nut onto clean metal after making a mess of the bolt

6. Drill it out & Retap.

Now, what I REALLY think happened is your tech is flat rated and gets
paid for his 1.2 hours (or whatever it is) for the job.. Problem
bolts are a productivity killer.

I was once working on a Cadillac Allante 4.1L with Digital Dash and
loads of electronics and had to weld a nut onto a broken water pump
bolt to get it out. The water pump job had a flat rate time of
something like 2 hours.. It took the better part of a day.

Air sander and buffers and waxing your car

I'm picking up my brand new car tonight (2006 Hyundai Elantra VE 5 Door in Midnight Blue) and I'd like to baby it a bit, so I'm hoping to give it a good waxing this weekend. I've got a few questions though. Now onto actual application of the wax. I don't have alot of time to spend handwaxing my new car. Is there a faster and better to apply the wax? I have a small air compressor and some air tools.

Thank you for taking the time to help out,


A great way to quickly apply wax to your automobile or ski boat is by using an air sander and buffer. This air tool can be both a sander and a air buffer. With the buffer action you can quicky buff out the wax on your car and barely break a sweat. This tool can also be used as an air sander as well. So it will have applications beyond just waxing your car.

10 steps to help your flooded automobile.

That National Automobile Dealers Association has provided a list of 10 things you can do to make the best of a flooded vehicle. NADA experts say prolonged exposure to water is probably going to have a negative impact on your vehicle, but these steps will help to limit your loss.

1. Do not start a flooded vehicle until after a thorough inspection and cleaning.

2. Take immediate steps to dry the vehicle as much as possible to reduce the time its components are exposed to water.

3. Contact your insurance carrier or agent, and promptly report the exposure of your vehicle to water or flood.

4. Record the highest level of water exposure on a flooded vehicle.This will aid qualified technicians in evaluating and taking the necessary steps to correct any damage.

5. Contact a certified technician to arrange for an inspection and evaluation of the flooded vehicle.

6. Have a qualified technician inspect all mechanical components, including the engine, transmission, axles, brakes and fuel system for water contamination.

7. Have a qualified technician flush and replace all fluids, oils and lubricants, and replace all filters and gaskets for components exposed to water. While a vehicle may drive with fluids that have experienced water intrusion, extended internal exposure to water will increase the level of damage to the engine and other vehicle components.

8. Many repair facilities recommend a thorough cleaning of brake parts and repacking of bearings, particularly for rear-end drive vehicles. In front-wheel drive vehicles, bearings are sealed.

9. Some of today's vehicles have padding and insulation that do not easily release moisture. In this situation, it is most effective to replace the materials to prevent the forming of mold or mildew that may contaminate the entire vehicle. With mildew, a repair that may have cost only $100 can easily escalate.

10. Have a qualified technician inspect all wiring and electrical components exposed to water. While many components are protected from casual water exposure, extended flood exposure may have lingering effects. In some instances, difficulty due to water exposure will not surface earlier than 90 days, when computer and other electrical components begin to corrode.

If you have determined that your car has not been flooded and it just won't start. You may consider the possibility that the battery has simply died from sitting for so long. If you are confident that your automobile has not been flooded, you may just need to jump start your car. A battery jump starter will be the tool to bring with you. You won't need another car to jump start your dead battery, just hook up the battery jump starter to the dead battery and crank it up.

Roof Ridge Vents question

My framer informed me that there is something called a Ridge Vent with a
ridge cap that is incorporated 6" or so from the peak of the gable roof
and runs the entire length so that you do not need a series of 507 square
vents. Has anyone had any experience with this? Any pros or cons?
I'd appreciate any help.

The cutout for the ridge vent needs to be the right size. A reciprocating saw or Milwaukee Sawzall is great tool for cutting the roof to the correct size. If the fitting is too small, it
cuts down air flow or you have no air flow. Too big, poor fitting, loosely
connected, may leak. The ridge vent needs to run the full length of the roof, not stop at where
the soffit starts that I've seen on some. This leaves the soffit poorly ventilated. Don't step on aridge vent, its made of mild plastic and will break. The roofing nails for the shingles that go on top of it need to be longer than those used on the sheathing. See its directions. The appearance is hardly noticablely changed at the ridge when finished. The ridge vent is the outlet/exhaust for hot air. In order for it to work effectively, a counterpart inlet/intake of fresh air is required. A few standard soffit vents isn't going to cut it. See the soffit at jameshardie.com When properly done with a counterpart appropriate soffit venting, very effective. The application directions are in the box. Some makers have 'em online.

Help with 1996 Ford Ranger Air Conditioner

I have a 1996 Ford Ranger XLT extended cab, 2.3 ltr. pwr steering, 5 speed, 55k miles. The air conditioner has a full charge and I do not think it is leaking. The compressor keeps cycling every 10 seconds or so, not long enough to really cool things down.It does seem to be cooling though. Any suggestions?

First of all, make sure your air conditioner has a full charge. I would hook up an air conditioning manifold gauge set and check the Freon in the system. If the pressure is low or non existent, you may put a little Freon in the system and check for refrigerant leaks. The best way to do this is with a Robinair refrigerant leak detector. This device will sniff around and locate any stray refrigerant coming out of your system. A refrigerant leak detector is much more accurate that other methods and can save you alot of time.

A few easy steps to flush your automobile’s radiator and coolant system.

One of the most overlooked maintenance items on your car is the coolant system. Most people don’t even think about it until they are on the side of the road with the hood up and steam pouring out of the radiator. This traffic nightmare can be avoided by some simple routine maintenance. Your coolant system should be flushed every two years and the anti freeze replaced as well. The chemicals in anti freeze begin to lose their effectiveness and rust and grime can build up in your engine and radiator. This will clog up your engine’s cooling system and cause your engine to overheat. The good news is very little mechanical skills are needed to flush your system and keep your car running for the years to come. Just follow these simple steps:

1.First of all make sure your car engine has not been running and it is cool. This is very important. A radiator can get very hot and possibly burn you. With the engine cool, open the radiator cap and relieve any pressure.

2.Next locate the drain valve on the radiator to drain it. It should be located on the bottom of the radiator. Be sure to drain the fluid into a container and not the ground. Once you have drained it, close the drain valve.

3.Now you are ready to install a back flush kit. This kit is inexpensive and can easily be purchased at your local auto parts store. Follow the instructions on the back on the kit. Basically, you have to cut the heater inlet hose going to the top of the engine. This is where you install the T section provided in the kit into the line. Slip both ends of the hose onto this fitting and tighten the clamps provided in the kit. Go ahead and connect your garden hose to this fitting.

4.Now place the diverter that came in the kit into the opening on the top of the radiator. This is where the water and coolant will pour out from when you start to flush the system. A hose or tube will be helpful to direct the run off into a bucket.

5.Now it is time to start the engine, turn the heater on high and turn on the garden hose. Coolant is now circulating through the engine and coming out through the diverter on the top of the radiator. Continue this process until clean water begins to come out the top. This should only take a few minutes.

6.Turn off the engine and garden hose. Now drain the radiator again into a bucket and close the drain valve when you are done.

7.Now it is time to add the new anti freeze. Pour the entire contents of the anti freeze bottle into the empty radiator and fill it until coolant pours out of the neck. Screw back on the radiator cap and you are done. Make sure you have also screwed back on the provided cap onto the T fitting you installed.

8.Take your car for a test drive around the block and make sure everything is ok.

Now you have a back flush fitting installed for the next time you need to flush your radiator and it will be a lot quicker. You will thank yourself the next time you pass that unlucky person on the side of the road with the ominous steam cloud pouring from the hood.